In a carved wooden window above Kathmandu Durbar Square, a small girl in red and gold occasionally looks down at a courtyard full of strangers, and for the length of that glance, the people below believe they are looking at a goddess. Not a statue of one, not a painting, not a symbol. The girl...Read More
The first sign that Indra Jatra has begun isn’t a sight; it’s a sound. Somewhere near Basantapur Durbar Square, a dhimay drum starts up, that deep, rolling double beat that Newar musicians have played at this exact festival for centuries, and within minutes the old city’s narrow streets fill with people moving toward it. Incense...Read More
